Defaral sa Labo

Fais-le toi-même!

Second jour

Rédigé par Olivier Heinry - 05 décembre 2013 - 162 commentaires

OHY

Visite de l'ONG la Kora PRD

L'entretien a lieu dans les nouveaux bureaux de l'ONG à proximité immédiate de l'aéroport de Yoff, en présence de Makhtar, Directeur Exécutif, Elodie Beumont, chargée d'appui ONG Frère des Hommes, Moussa M'Baye, membre d'une coopérative de menuisiers et représentant de la chambre des métiers du Bâtiment du Sénégal, ainsi que de Pape, un stagiaire.

Ils nous présentent leurs actions de terrain dans le domaine du textile mais surtout dans celui du bois à leur station de Tambacounda. Ils introduisent une nouvelle machine dans un atelier du soir. Les artisans en éprovuent de l'intérêt , s'équipent de ce genre de machines et deviennent formateurs du soir à leur tour. Travail de pédagogie alternant formation théorique et travail de terrain en ateliers, contrairement à la pratique dominante où les artisans apprennent toujours tout sur le tas. Formation intégrant tous les aspects du travail: recherche de clientèle, calcul de métrage, esquisse, fabrication, gestion des stocks, facturation. Ces formations s'appuient entre autres sur des posters grand format recensant toutes ces étapes de façon synthétique.

Constat du manque de formation sur le choix des matériaux de la part des artisans (conservation de l'aubier sujet aux attaques de termites, absence de séchage avant la mise en oeuvre, absence de calculs de reprise de charge). Apparemment, le ciment et le béton ont totalement évincés le bois du domaine de la construction, d'un meilleur rapport économique.

Expression de beaucoup d'intérêt pour les machines à commandes numériques, surtout dans le domaine du bois, pour la sculpture, mais aussi pour remplacer des machines souvent achetées d'occasion en Europe (majoritairement en italie par m. M'Baye) il y a plus de 30 ans avec des difficultés d'approvisionnement en pièces de rechange.

CWS

Visite de l'atelier de Johanna Bramble

Johanna Bramble est parisienne d'origine et a étudier le design textile a Dupérée et l'ENSCI. Elle est venue s'installer a Dakar il y a 4 ans comme assistante d'Aïssa Dione avant de monter un petit atelier de tissage dans le quartier de Ouakam. Elle vend des textiles surtout destinés a l'ameublement. Sa clientèle est à l'étranger et à Dakar.

Elle part de la tradition textile africaine du pagne pour l'adapter a un marché textile de décoration intérieur. Elle utilise des métiers traditionnelles agrandis en largeur jusqu'à l'extension maximale du bras du tisserand (cf Aïssa Dione) pour adapter les dimensions standards du marché textile d'ameublement. Elle joue avec la tradition en agrandissant par exemple les motifs traditionnels ou en changeant les rythmes. Le passage au préalable de dessin à la main pour préparer ses motifs.

Elle achète du fil de coton au Mali filé a la main pour la trame des tissages. Le fil de coton, irrégulier comporte des caractéristiques spécifiques aux effets de matières qu'il donne au tissage. Elle expérimente aussi avec des fils en teintures naturelles comme le tanin, écorces, feuilles, l'indigo, boogolan, boue (oxydation). Ces techniques sont très avancés au Mali. Le prix au kg de ce coton est quasi le même que celui qui est importé de Chine.

Venue d'Europe s'installer a Dakar, elle a pu analyser les possibilités d'adaptation des techniques de tissage avec les tisserands locaux. Cela prend du temps et n'est pas toujours évidant car il y a une envie d'un côté de préserver la tradition des techniques de tissage transmis de père en fils de génération en générations. D'un autre côté il faut faire vivre cette tradition en l'innovant autant graphiquement que dans ses outils afin d'assurer une rendement dans les modes de productions actuelles (tendances, salons, collections saisonnières..) D'autant plus que le textile artisanal a une concurrence rude avec l'hyperproduction industrielle. Le tissage a un rôle de l'ordre du sacrée. De plus que cette tradition se perd donc il y a un certain protectionnisme. Il faut beaucoup de temps et un long travail pour venir changer les habitudes locales.

Vf : Mai Jop qui retrouve les motifs de tissage de pagnes très anciens originaires de St Louis. Intéressant aussi que certains des motifs et techniques viennent des portugais a la base et ont été transformé selon le temps (idée copie, open source)

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